One of my major excuses for not marrying was that I could never imagine spending Christmas anywhere but at Mom's (and Dad's); no in-laws could possibly come close to what Christmas meant in our family. In my childhood that meant at Gramma and Grampa Koftan's, with Aunt Audree's family and Uncle Larry's family. (Grandpa Luckert went to Aunt Lizzie's for a week or two.) It was understood that we all would be together for the year's supreme holiday--as well as other major holidays but particularly this one--only the weather interfering. I can recall being crushed when a blizzard prevented going to the farm, that 11 or 12 miles of gravel drifted shut, an Arctic world away. It rarely happened, though I suspect that the 1948-49 winter might have been likely, the year Center had no travel in or out for two weeks, no electricity for most of that time, the snow up to the power and telephone poles' crossbars, often twice as high as a car, one-way traffic in the worst-drifted sections. On the other hand, as long as the state-maintenance graders had bladed the roads, we could always put on chains and did, if the snow was blowing or was otherwise over the roads. When our grandparents lived Up West, on the Peters' home place north of Newport, we all went for the week, to be there from the 24th through the 1st or 2nd, too far to be whipping up and back just for Christmas Eve and Day. Travel was much more serious then. And a shovel, extra blankets, and provisions in case we got stuck were standard.
Yesterday when I was cooking and baking, I thought how the season always meant Special Food. It's a wonder we didn't turn into the blubbery sorts now worrying the health watchers, given all the seasonal richness, except that we were necessarily more active then--no TV--and preparations weren't a matter of ordering online. Once December rolled around, days were spent in cooking and baking, keeping our buffet full of platters and dishes of cookies, candies, bowls of nuts with nutcracker and picks, sweet rolls for company dropping in. And neighbors and relatives did drop in, especially with Mom's hospitality and the widespread gift-giving then. She kept wrapped boxes of chocolate-covered cherries in case someone brought an unexpected gift. While Freddie, our favored Center store, had the best stock of candies and nuts in the county, as far as I ever knew, we also made all kinds of cookies--the Christmas cut-outs were venerated and hung above the stove--and divinity and fudge from scratch. As usual, Mom kept me as busy as she was with the candy-making and baking and wrapping presents during full ovens.
This was even truer for Gramma, who prepared for her meat-and-potatoes menfolk and famished grandchildren the way she did for threshers. That range of hers, fueled by kindling and cobs, went from morning to night, baking kolaches, boiling batches of fudge, cooking white divinity, pfeffernusse, peanut brittle. Store-bought was expensive, from bread and butter to chocolate chip cookies, so it was all home-made, except for perhaps some chocolate-covered cherries and the nuts. I have a cherished reminder of those, lots of cheap peanuts in their shells, hazelnuts (which we children thought were acorns) or filberts, Brazil nuts Mom was particularly fond of (but we called them by a very politically incorrect name in innocent racism), almonds, walnuts--pecans reserved for baking, cashews and pistachios in the future. (I can still remember my first cashews, hot in their own stand in a Norfolk dimestore, a special, expensive treat, sometime in my high school years, I think.)
This is Grandma Koftan's nut bowl, also home-made, as you can see in the photo below. I have this cherished memory sitting on Great-Grandma Peters' sofa table. The nutcracker was in the middle hole of the center cylinder, the nut picks in the holes around the nutcracker. The bowl was always kept full. I had thought it lost. After Dad died and we were cleaning out the north garage, I found it stuck up in the rafters and was incredulous. My sisters didn't recognize it, but I certainly did. Here's what the bottom looks like, the marks of the turning lathe clear on the raw wood.
While I'm at it, I do have to lodge one complaint. Black walnut trees grew around the Bloomfield farmhouse. Mama loved those black walnuts; I never did acquire a taste for their bitterness, nor did my cousins. Some of Gram's fudge was ruined because she put black walnuts in it. Otherwise, it was wonderful chocolate or brown sugar fudge, grainy sometimes because made from scratch. Using marshmallow whip for creamy sweetness came later and was a town thing Mom introduced to the family.
Naturally, the three families contributed to the holiday feasts, usually pies, cookies, other easily transported foodstuffs. Gramma usually had chocolate sheet cake because it was the quickest and easiest and fastest to disappear into our young mouths. If we were lucky and she had time, we might savor a chocolate layer cake. After Gram died, Mom continued her mother's tradition of apple, pumpkin, and peach pies, and Sue, my surviving sister, does apple and pumpkin, like Mom's. (We have her recipes, often Gramma's originally.) Without realizing it, I emphasized the sweets, because that's what children are the most interested in. Luckily, I was as active in winter as in summer, maybe more so, because I was a fudge glutton. And I fought with Denny and Mike over the prune and cherry kolaches. (We disdained the apricot, poppy seed, and cottage cheese, which the adults, certainly Mom, also liked.)
Actually, the one food most identified with Christmas Eve memories was oyster stew, canned oysters only when no fresh were to be had anywhere. Milk, butter, salt, and pepper, the milk flavored by the oysters with their juice, the stew even better after a day or two so that it was always made in big batches. Today only my brother-in-law and I will eat it in my family, my sisters and their children making wretching noises at the very smell.
Otherwise, the Christmas Eve meal was mostly convenience, the good meal for the next noon. That was obviously in deference to the grandchildren not interested in sustenance nearly as much as in opening presents, the adults piecing all evening. Because of the number of people, we had to eat in shifts. The food: the bread was still baked unless one of our families brought store bread, the ham usually Grampa's--or maybe canned beef from the hillside cave, luncheon meat such as minced ham or liverwurst store-bought, salads which came to mean potato salad and Jello salad with fruit cocktail and nuts, which, after Gramma died, was Grampa's contribution to the Christmas meal, a huge bowl of it. I seem to remember deviled eggs, plentiful on the farm, because we certainly had them later as "tradition" at our house after Gram died and the families had grown separated in space and time. Celery with peanut butter, pickles (canned by Gram and Mom) and olives. I'm not sure when the cranberry-pineapple-whipped cream salad started, but all I recall Gram ever having was jellied cranberry sauce, store-bought, for turkey or duck, which would've been for the big meal, not Christmas Eve. We did not eat potato chips then, certainly no nacho chips, the way we do now; seasoned potato chips were another innovation of the 1950s. Otherwise, Christmas Eve was snacktime, hurried along by impatient children.
We lit the twisted-red-wax candles on the tree for a brief moment in my earliest years. (REA and electricity didn't come to the farm until the late 1940s.) I think we had to do some singing before the big moment, gathered around the upright piano, Gram playing. Otherwise, the climax was opening all the presents heaped up around the tree and wherever there was room, since then everyone got presents from the four families gathered. (I can still remember being crowded by the boxes of presents in the back seat of our car.) Later in the evening very early in my childhood, we'd talk Grampa into playing his fiddle, which at that time he could even do behind his back. Finally, we had a visit from Santa. Gramma had a Santa mask and suit, filled by a neighbor or on that occasion I mentioned by Uncle Larry, but Santa Claus came after we had opened presents. Except for him, glorious, happy, happy memories!
Later Note: We were not always at the farm for Christmas Eve and Day. When the concrete-block house was built in Crofton, we were there at least once when our grandparents lived there and at least once when Earl and Audree lived there. I was reminded by a poll of "What Was Your Best Christmas Gift?" in the newspaper, and my answer was easy. Not too long after I had lost my dog--as a boy, I always had a dog--and swore never to be broken-hearted over another killed by a car, I was sitting at the corner of the Crofton living room near the entrance to the kitchen when around the corner came this little black-and-white puppy tripping over a big envelope tied on with a big red ribbon. According to the enclosed document of birth record, his name was Hugo Victor Herbert, Aunt Audree's nod to my musicality. And the other Crofton time, much later, for sure for sure was when I was working at Tom's Music House in Norfolk and was utterly frazzled by the final week of staying open every night, longer-than-12-hour days, and stayed for the shortest time ever, tired of people and hating carols, going back to Center and watching Christmas shows and St. Patrick's midnight mass from New York City because I'd never seen one, falling to sleep during it.
